Italian Dolomites — Boutique Hotels & Travel Guide

Cortina d'Ampezzo is the most glamorous resort in the Italian Dolomites — a town with genuine style, excellent food, and access to the Dolomiti Superski area, the largest ski region in the world. Courmayeur, on the Italian side of Mont Blanc, has a different character — more relaxed, excellent food, and a tunnel connection to Chamonix that makes it uniquely well positioned. The Alta Via routes — long-distance hiking trails through the Dolomites — are among the finest mountain walks in Europe.

In Cortina d'Ampezzo, begin a day with a strong espresso and a view of the Tofane peaks from the terrace of Pasticceria Lacedel. For a quintessential Dolomitic lunch, take the chairlift up to Rifugio Mietres; their casunziei (beetroot-filled pasta) is particularly memorable, and the panoramic terrace provides an unobstructed view of the valley. Later, a gentle walk along the 'Vecchia Ferrovia' (old railway line) offers an accessible route with stunning vistas, especially in late afternoon. For an evening out, consider a dinner at El Brite de Larieto, a farm-to-table restaurant specializing in their own cheese and meat products, a short drive from the town center.

Courmayeur offers a different rhythm. Start with a stroll through Via Roma, pausing at a local 'panetteria' for a fresh 'micca di Courmayeur' bread. For a more adventurous day, consider hiring a mountain guide for an off-piste descent from the Vallée Blanche, accessible via the Skyway Monte Bianco, which is an experience well beyond typical resort skiing. For lunch, ascend to Rifugio Maison Vieille, a charming, rustic hut renowned for its hearty polenta dishes and lively atmosphere, often with live music. In the evening, the thermal baths at Pré Saint Didier provide a restorative experience, particularly after a day on the slopes or trails. For dinner, Ristorante La Grolla, with its traditional Aostan cuisine and charming wooden interiors, is a reliable choice for local specialties like fondue and carbonada.

In Cervinia, given its high-altitude setting, the focus is often on the extensive skiing. Take the cable car up to Plateau Rosa (3,480 meters) for a truly high-Alpine experience, even in summer, offering glacier walks and views of the Matterhorn. For a gourmet mountain lunch, head to Chalet Etoile, famed for its seafood and vibrant atmosphere, despite its remote mountain location. For a more traditional experience, seek out a 'rascard' – a traditional wooden house – converted into a restaurant in the nearby village of Valtournenche, such as Ristorante Foyer des Guides, for authentic Valdostan fare. The local market in Cervinia, typically held on Wednesdays, offers an opportunity to sample regional cheeses, cured meats, and other local produce.